With St. Patrick’s Day around the corner, we at The Big Eat Ontario were looking for an authentic Irish pub experience – and we found it just a short walk from Islington subway station in Etobicoke at St. James’s Gate.
Established in 2011 by Irish pub veteran Paddy Gill and his business partner, this Irish alehouse and restaurant features over 90 selections of whiskey, scotch, and bourbon, 20 draught beers, and a 65-seat front patio. In the kitchen you’ll find Geoff Dennis – an enthusiastic master of cuisine who brought his knack for modernizing pub fare to St. James’s Gate in July 2014. Things never seem to get boring at St. James, as Chef Geoff likes to switch up the menu every now and then and change features every two days. Everything on the menu has beer in the recipe, and you can also enjoy fresh whole grain breads, gluten-free options, and local ingredients. This past week we got to sit down with Paddy and Geoff and indulged in a diverse selection of appetizers, entrees, and even dessert – all dishes you’ll find on their new menu.
What is a pub fare experience without chicken wings ( 1lb. $12, 2lbs. $23)? St. James’s Gate boasts some of the biggest, juiciest jumbo wings you’ll come across. These Ontario roaster wings are marinated without breading for ideal flavour and crispy texture– but what really sets these wings apart from all the rest is Chef Geoff’s special wing-cooking method. Geoff bakes the wings in the oven first to keep all the juices in; then they’re set aside and flash-fried to order for optimal freshness. And of course, these wings wouldn’t be Irish pub fare without their signature sweet/smoky/tangy Guinness barbeque sauce – but you can try mild, medium, hot, suicide, or honey garlic if it pleases your taste buds.
If you’re looking for a healthier alternative to get your appetite going, the Citrus Weissbeir Fish Tacos ($12) come highly recommended. These Mexican classics have an Irish spin with basa fish poached in Shock Top Citrus Belgian White beer on top of carefully grilled soft taco shells. Sambal aioli is what gives these tacos a mild little kick, but what really makes them is the charred corn salsa underneath a perfect slice of avocado. Fresh cilantro leaves add the authentic finishing touch to this delicious snack. You might find yourself craving another order!
The Roasted Cauliflower ($12) – was probably our favourite appetizer at St. James’s Gate. It is a truly original dish with a warm, homey feel. Aged white cheddar, warm cream cheese, and of course, roasted cauliflower make up this dish. To add a slight crispiness, the top of the dip is made of a blistered parmesan walnut crust. For dipping, a generous amount of soft garlic pretzel bites sprinkled with sea salt. This appetizer is a cheesy, creamy, crispy indulgence that Paddy says you have to try if you decide to pay a visit to St. James’s Gate. But be warned, this appetizer is addictive!
The Gate Reuben Stack ($14) is where Chef Geoff’s love for cooking with beer really shines – probably because he uses at least three different kinds in this handcrafted sandwich. This hearty dish contains juicy shaved corned beef, grainy seed mustard, and Swiss cheese on a pretzel bun. But it’s not a Reuben without sauerkraut, which is braised in Kilkenny Ale – and Irish spin on an American deli classic. The sandwich is topped with large onion rings made in a Black and Tan beer batter, forming an eye-catching tower. This stack is perfect for any beer fan, but you probably won’t need a designated driver after enjoying one.
Pork or beef? If you like meat and have trouble deciding between the two, try The Hogtowner ($16) on the two-fisted burger menu. A half-pound of handcrafted burger and pork loin marinated in maple Tankhouse Ale give you the best of both worlds. This burger has some crispiness to it – and we’re not talking about lettuce. The Hogtowner comes complete with onion curls fried in buttermilk that does wonders for the overall texture. No need for ketchup here; this juicy delight includes aged white cheddar and a tasty horseradish aioli to add a little creaminess to the experience.
If you’re looking for a lowbrow curry dish, go somewhere else. St. James Gate’s Chicken Curry ($14.5) is a classic Indian staple that packs a punch not meant for the faint of heart. The chicken is marinated in coconut milk for 48 hours until it’s sautéed with vegetables and potatoes and served in Geoff’ signature yellow curry sauce. Of course, basmati rice completes the ensemble along with mango chutney and a light and crispy papadum – perfect for dipping in the hot and spicy goodness.
Chef Geoff steps aside and hands the reigns to his fellow cook, Annie for this next timeless entrée; Fish and Chips (1 pc. $13, 2 pcs. $18). The fish of choice is haddock coated in a crunchy Alexander Keith’s beer batter. The chips are fresh cut russet potatoes cooked until they reach a perfect golden brown that would make McCain’s jealous. In fact, frozen fry manufacturers have been after Paddy’s patronage for years, but he tells them all to take a hike. A refreshing side of vinegar-based coleslaw comes with this dish, which is cleverly served, on a piece of newspaper printed with articles about fish. Don’t forget the tartar sauce!
If deep-fried fish isn’t your thing, the Salmon & Wild Grains ($18) is a colourful, protein-packed “Big Bowl” salad that has it all. Grilled salmon served on a bed of tri-coloured quinoa salad with barley, baby spinach, mandarin oranges, sundried apricots, and a cherry tomato relish for a truly original finish. A balsamic glaze and citrus vinaigrette make a balanced piquant dressing that flawlessly compliments the sweetness of the fruit.
Finally, the Hunter Pie ($15) is a comfort food that is sure to put St. James’s Gate on the map. This customer favourite isn’t your grandma’s potpie. The beef is braised in Guinness Stout and red wine and combined with a veggie medley of carrots, celery, and parsnip. The crust is a flaky golden cloud of puff pastry that completes every savoury bite. The Hunter Pie is served with seasonal vegetables and Yukon Gold garlic mashed potatoes; but the real star of this pie is the Guinness gravy that Geoff carefully crafts using the stock he roasts off of the beef. This extremely popular dish is so good, you’ll find yourself licking the bowl.
Have a sweet tooth? Finish off your experience at St. James’s Gate with the Sticky Toffee Pudding. Made with fresh dates and a house-made caramel sauce, the recipe comes all the way from a pub in Scotland. Half a bottle of rum goes into making a batch of 20 of these warm and moist treats, making them The Gate’s sweetest and best-kept secret.
St. James’s Gate isn’t your run-of-the-mill gastropub, with its diverse demographic ranging from toddlers, to young professionals, to grandparents. This Irish pub is a step above all the rest with its delightful ambience and frequent live entertainment, which includes an Irish kind of cabaret. The Gate is very involved in the Irish community, participating in the annual Irish Pub Open Challenge – a golf tournament in support of the Ireland Fund of Canada. This St. Paddy’s, you can try the new charcuterie platter at the big Irish five-course dinner being held with live entertainment ranging from music to comedy. But order your tickets now because they go fast and the line up has been known to go around the block. Don’t be fooled by the modest parking lot in the front, Paddy says there is ample parking in behind the pub.
Simplify it
Pricing: $$$ out of $$$$$
Atmosphere: Casual
Type of food: Irish Fare, Pub Food
We Suggest: Cauliflower Dip, Fish & Chips, Sticky Toffee Pudding
Located: 5140 Dundas St W, Etobicoke, M9A 1C2
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