Seasonal, fresh, simple, beautiful ingredients. This is what comes to mind when I think about my recent experience at Dandylion. This restaurant (sandwiched between Parkdale and Trinity-Bellwoods) is quite small and well-appreciated (which has kept them firmly on my must-do list over the years). At home on Canada's 100 Best Restaurants since the list's inception, they've ranked every year; #100 in 2015, #6 in 2016 (a massive jump!), #9 in 2017, #12 in 2018 and finally #18 in 2019. You'll also find them at #22 on Toronto Life's The City’s 100 Best Restaurants 2018 list. I was so excited to finally pay a visit on a Saturday evening! (Reservations are a pretty good idea.)
The restaurant itself reflects the cuisine well. Fresh, bright and simple. I loved the garage-style doors, opening the storefront to the sidewalk outside and letting in tons of glowing light and a calming breeze. The space has a bit of an industrial feel with a concrete floor, exposed air ducts, and tons of old-timey brick. I loved all of the greenery and the fact that the open kitchen is just a part of the same room. You'll only find about 30 seats in this place, which suits the overall vibe of refined simplicity. The number three is definitely a theme at Dandylion - you'll notice it over and over. Chef and co-owner Jason Carter is behind this restaurant and has a reputation as being the least self-promoting chef ever. I can certainly agree with this after noting the sparseness of their website and lack of an Instagram account entirely.
The friendly and knowledgeable staff was pleasant during our entire visit. Upon being seated we were offered sparkling or still water, to which I opted for still. Our next order of business was beverages from their selection of red and white wine, bubbles, beer and cider. I noticed the absence of cocktails which is the direction that I normally lean, but was happy to order some wine and feel more "adult." Our server was gracious in assisting me to choose the perfect glass (amidst my questionable preference descriptions) and I ordered the Foradori "Lezèr" 2018 from Dolomites, Italy ($15.00). Made from the Teroldego grape variety, this red was light and juicy, just the way that I like it. The vineyard that makes it specializes in "raw wine," which means organic, unfined, unfiltered, low sulphite, and no temperature control. It sounds like a very grassroots operation and I enjoyed their product quite a lot.
Next was a delivery of a warm, gorgeous rustic loaf of sourdough served in the best woven basket. Apparently this bread is baked with a starter that came to life practically a decade ago. Served with fresh fromage blanc with minced shallot on top, I loved the spreadable homemade cream cheese-like aspect of it all. The bread was ultra crusty and caramelized on the outside and beautifully warm, dense and moist on the inside. One slice turned into two and then three very easily. Delicious!
The menu is short; edited down just like what’s on the plate to what is best. There are three courses offered, three dishes each per course to choose from, with three primary ingredients listed per dish. The whole idea is to create simple dishes using the very best possible ingredients. Out of the three Starters, I was most drawn to the Lettuce, Tomato, Cucumber ($22.00), yes even over scallops and a pork terrine. It just seemed to me that something so simple has gotta be done well if they're serving it. This salad was a bountiful serving that also included radishes and puffed grains. The grains were wonderful, adding a satisfying texture and crunch. The vinaigrette was light and zesty, well dressing the bright and fresh vegetables. The ingredients might have been simple but the beauty of this plate was exactly what I had hoped for. There is nothing better in the middle of summer than a stunning and ripe plate like this.
Out of the three offerings for main Plates I was immediately drawn to the Tuna, White Bean, Fennel ($30.00). The stunning plating caught my eye and impressed me. Rose-coloured slabs of Yellowfin laid across a bed of fennel, sitting in a delicate broth. The slices of tuna were essentially prepared sashimi-style, never frozen, and tasted incredible. I loved the light treatment of the flavourful broth and bite from the beans. However, the component that surprised me the most was the fennel, a vegetable that I don't typically seek out. The blubs were deliciously silky and tender, bathed in the broth - the best preparation of fennel that I've ever had. The aromatic seasoning on this dish was excellent and expertly done.
Not willing to pass up on dessert, we decided to share a little something from the Finish section of the menu. The Lemon Tart, Fresh Blueberry ($13.00) sounded perfectly seasonal. Not too sweet and deliciously tart, this was a hit. I loved the buttery pastry, zingy custard-like lemon, and the beautiful blueberry compote on top. If this doesn't scream "Ontario summer" I don't know what does.
I had a lovely time at Dandylion. The concept of "less is more" could not shine more true than it does at this restaurant. They are doing well at proving that this statement is accurate throughout their entire dining experience and I loved going on their simply beautiful journey.
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