The Best Sushi Anywhere. E: "Best Sushi Anywhere" Hyperbole? No, actually not. Zen is the best restaurant anywhere.
Zen Japanese is, in my opinion, not only the best sushi restaurant in Toronto, but also the best sushi anywhere. Yes, and to emphasize the point through some tackiness, I have eaten sushi in Japan.
The fish is both superb quality and correctly cut and prepared. The staples (Tai, Hirame, Suzuki and Maguro) are well represented, while fancier sea fare (Uni, Otoro, spring's herring-like Kohada, the full bodied winter fish Tachiuo or the light summer Isaki. etc.) could be found in an omakase order and off the menu. Omakase at Zen is always a treat. As many know, omakase is where one leaves the items served in the hands of the chef allowing him to serve what is available, seasonal and tasty. Here the chefs (owner Seiichi Kashiwabara, Jackie Lin and Arai Fumiko, as well as kitchen cook Sawabe Masaya) are adventurous and take full advantage of seasonality and the correct order in which fish and other dishes need to be served. Not all sushi restaurants, authentic or not, take advantage of the array of seasonal fish - Aoyama for instance, is conservative in this respect - but Zen is a mecca to fish of all types.
If maki (rolls) is your thing Zen's Negihama (yellow tail with green onions) is unparalleled. At the end of the course, Zen offers superb Unagi or Anago coloured just right with sauce that is a perfect mixture between rich and delicate. However, if you have affection for things like 'orangeville roll' or 'bazooka roll' or 'the fish was sooo fresh' or 'the California rolls are a must-try' or 'all-you-can-eat' then Zen and you are like Britney Spears and intelligence. I have seen whole fish arrive at Zen from Japan with the restaurant's name written on it. There are plenty of 'cushi' (Chinese sushi) and 'kushi' (Korean sushi) restaurants at attractive prices one can 'to die for.'
As good as the fish is the rice at Zen is superlative. Its density is consistently just right. Never the wrong volume or packed wrong it is cooked, customized and packed for the specific type of order customer places. Their menu states that they use Nozomi rice. I assume, from the end-result, it is indeed premium.
The nori (seaweed) too is imported from Japan. If you believe the owner, he has a friend order these domestically in Japan on his behalf.
Wasabi is also something with which Zen stands out. Many - I would say the vast majority - restaurants use wasabi substitutes either out of a tube or mix down their wasabi. At the bar at Zen one receives real freshly grated wasabi, a rare commodity in these parts. Wasabi is best consumed no more than 15 minutes after it is grated and such is the case at Zen. It reminds me of a conversation I overheard two years ago at Los Angeles' Hide Sushi. A couple were sitting two tables away from us with the woman being the sushi 'expert' and the man being the virgin. She was, among other things, relating to her friend what 'wasabi' was and how it is used and eaten. She informed her friend that "wasabi is horseradish." Back then I thought her ignorant and misleading and felt sorry for the guy whose mentor is misinforming her. I have since reconsidered because, it so happens that, she was correct. In most sushi restaurants wasabi is indeed horseradish mixed with mustard, vinegar, dye and so forth! On occasion, some have attempted to cultivate wasabi outside Japan but none have succeeded. The best wasabi comes from the far north of Japan and the Amagi Mountain outside Tokyo. Anything else is called 'bachi' ('from elsewhere') and seen as inferior. Suffice to say, that is not the case at Zen.
Zen's cooked main meals are not quite such gastrostars. While no slouch, the sukiyaki is pre-prepared, as opposed to done the traditional way at the table. Miyabi, Sagano or Niagara Falls' Sukiguni offer the do-it-yourself Sukiyaki.
The chirashi/udon combo is a special value.
For appetizers try the Horenso Goma-ae (spinach with sesame) or Gyutan (ox tongue).
For cooked fish the menu offers a cooked saba meal. On occasion they also have Kamasu ('barracuda') from Japan as a meal with sunomono, et cetra.
I am not a dessert connoisseur, but the black sesame ice cream is rich and, at least, good for teeth blackening, while the Mandarin pie and cream caramel, in-house rumour has it, are home-made by Mrs. Kazuko Kashiwabara. Incidentally, compare the owner/chef's correct surname with the spelling on his certificate behind the bar. Spring 2012 update: the new City Of Toronto certificate spells the chef's name correctly, although he wryly noted that the new one again mispelt his name, but this time he sent it back not wanting a second wrong one!
The prices are above average for sushi. One can have an omakase meal of $100 per person as well at Zen. The prices are below average for the quality.
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A: The restaurant is small with perhaps five tables and two booths, but the sushi bar is active and a good option. This is often not the case elsewhere if the bar is too narrow or awkward.
The facility is clean and sparsely designed with the traditional Japanese knick knacks and statuettes. Otherwise, there is little fancy about the restaurant.
More (less!) could be said about the restaurant's location. The strip plaza is located in a downtrodden neighbourhood. The plaza itself suffers from dearth of parking, suspect neighbouring businesses and miscellaneous riffraff likely as puzzled with the Zen clientele as the diners are with the maladjusted locals' wanderings up and down. Incidentally, if worse comes to worst customers are known to have parked either next door or behind the restaurant. Having said that, make waltzing through the back door and kitchen a last option. On the bright side, if Zen's sushi does not fill one enough one can presumably always fill up three doors down with whatever it is they conjure in the Caribbean. Speaking of which, on one occasion I was about to kill the human trash that appears in this plaza. I have regretted not going ahead since.
The restaurant's management is considering moving at some point, which sounds like a good idea; however, as long as it does not come at the expense of the restaurant's longevity or characteristic quality. Unlike many other restaurants Zen's quality has not been compromised at the hands of time.
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T: Service is usually timely and kind. The servers can get busy and, as such, occasionally fall behind especially in the evenings. The food arrives quickly lunch or dinner with the third sushi chef appearing behind the counters depending on the number of clients at the restaurant.
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S: The servers (Keiko, Mimi or Emi) can converse with you in Japanese or recommend specials in English. Incidentally, specials are an important part of the fare at Zen (see above 'adventurous'). The chefs work hard to keep regulars and sushi bar customers delighted and interested. Feel free to enquire from the waitresses whether there are any specials.
Itamae Seiichi Kashiwabara is not only Japanese, but also trained in the art of sushi in Japan. As a child, he had seen photos his businessman father had taken of Chicago and yearned to leave Japan and travel. Soon after becoming a sushi chef in Japan his teacher relocated to Hawaii to start a restaurant. This reinforced Seiichi's dream to move abroad. The opportunity came when a friend of his father opened a restaurant in Ottawa and needed a sushi chef. Kashiwabara moved to Canada, more precisely to Ottawa, and obtained a job making sushi at Suisha Gardens ('water wheel gardens'). This restaurant still exists in Ottawa. Although, the original owner who was a friend of Kashiwabara's father, has since sold the business, relocated to Niagara Falls and opened a namesake Japanese Restaurant. Incidentally, at Suisha Gardens Kashiwabara instructed a young upstart chef who, in turn, would end up in Richmond, BC and open a highly regarded sushi-ya called Village Sushi Bar.
Kashiwabara's competent colleagues at restaurants like Miyabi and Mikado are actually trained in Canada by none other than Sushi Kaji's eponymous chef and owner.
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