This past July, I attended the event #DOS, a Mexican throwdown with Andrew Richmond of Mexican taqueria La Carnita and Chicago legend, Big Star. While I could have easily eaten my weight in tacos that night, it was the fried bologna sandwich by Richmond’s then opening-soon restaurant, Home of the Brave, that truly stole my heart. Seriously, I had two of them to myself in addition to everything else. Check out the goodness below.
Well, since that little sneak preview of theHOTB hotspot, chefs Jonathon Hamilton and Nate Middleton (both of La Carnita) have been busy pulling together the new digs on King West. The concept has been to piece together little forgotten fragments of American culinary history. Flavours, preparations and presentations that we here in the T Dot have likely forgotten or never even seen.
The idea was ultimately born out of Richmond’s recent travels across America (Boston, NYC, Chicago, San Francisco, Florida and Philly) while searching for Mexican inspiration in the development of La Carnita. Aptly, out of the odds and ends discarded in the development of Richmond’s first super-smash eatery comes a whole new kick-ass concept, one with only the tastiest, most craveworthy discoveries represented in one 68-seat restaurant.
TheHOTB can first be spotted from across the busy King West strip as a bustling open room set with barstools just atop Lou Dawgs. In typical King West style, the space on a Friday night is buzzing with energy and packed full. It's a little warm inside the room with all those bodies hanging around the bar, but I like that there is fresh air coming through the open front. I also like that while the noise level in the back dining room area is certainly loud with chatter and music, I'm suprisingly able to hear both my partner and server speak without really much strain at all. Decor-wise, the the space is very diners, drive-ins and dives, but with a bit of a more stylized retro feel. There are tacky bubbly bright orange booths, beaten-up Liberty Bell light fixtures and Andrew Kidder’s playful black and white graffiti work displaying the restaurant’s “Join or Die” adage.
On their website, the folks at theHOTB describe the saying as a “storied part of American heritage” – you join together in unity or you can get left behind. Now, I don’t care where everyone else is heading, but if it’s to theHOTB.
But all this talk of dying certainly necessitates some good booze, so I had to get my drink on first. Before even taking a peak at the drink menu, I caught glimpse of the “booze slushie” machine, taking me back to my Peterborough days when we used to hang out at the 7/11 and spike our slurpees with cheap rum. Hey, if you had to spend your teen years in a small city like the Peterpatch, you’d probably do it too. On the other end of the classy drink scale, the bar uses a variety of house-made bitters and syrups to drum up a short list of playful house cocktails, 1920’s forgotten American classics, and what they’re calling “guest book cocktails”. Essentially, what they’ve done is had cocktail recipes submitted to them from a variety of popular American cocktail bars. The contributing mixologists may even make guest appearances at the HOTB bar! Diners who aren’t so enthusiastic about getting liquored up can entertain theHOTB’s exclusive American beer, or wine offerings, and even try a pint of their on-draft root beer. But in classic Abbey style, it was definitely hard liquor for me. And boy, was it hard. Here’s a peek at what we sipped.
Jack & Coke Slushie
Zombie Slushie: Three Types of Rum, Grapefruit, Pineapple, Bitters, Cinnamon Syrup
'‘Tis the Saison : Bourbon, Peach, Rosemary, Saison ($12)
Summer in Sakon : Thai Spiced Vodka, Pineapple, Ginger Beer, Lime ($12)
First of all, if you want to get shickered, then go for the slushies first. Wow. Those babies are loaded with the good stuff and surprisingly not too sweet. In contrast, the Tis the Saison tasted much more subtle and delicate, while the Sakon offered a nice kick of heat. If you like ginger beer (I love the stuff), then you’ll definitely want to check the Sakon out.
In theme with the rest of the HOTB brand, the food is unmistakably American. Generous portions of calorie-loaded favourites delivering a one way ticket to flavourtown (yes, I just quoted a man with bleach blond hair who wears shades on the back of his head). But no, seriously, folks, a peek at the 18 item menu and you'll feel as though you're on a road trip through the good ol’ U-S of A. Fried chicken, fried bologna, fried tater tots, fried funnel cake. Ladies and gents, this is not the place to bring a lady (or man) who’s respectfully watching their weight. And I mean, I kinda’ watch mine (most days...), but that wasn’t going to stop me from digging in hard. Now, to be fair, there were some salads and veggie sides the menu, but I couldn’t bring myself to order beets when the meaty bones were staring at me. This is what went in my mouth that unapologetically gluttonous night.
Kentucky Fried Handshake Sandwich : Fried Chicken, Mayo, Iceberg Lettuce, Louisiana Hot Sauce ($13)
Loved the presentation (chicken foot anyone?), and the flavour was right on. The chicken was juicy inside and well seasoned, with a wickedly crunchy batter holding it all in. At first bite I thought that the sandwich could have maybe used a touch more mayo but once I added a good dousing of hot sauce, there was more than enough flavour to go around.
Bones in a Bucket : Kansas City Rubbed Beef & Pork Ribs, Ranch Dressing, Pickled Celery & Carrot ($18)
I definitely preferred the succulent pork ribs to their beef cousins, which were a little more fatty and therefore, harder to eat in their entirety. Having said that, I found the rib rub nicely balanced and not too cloyingly sweet and I loved that they served their veggies pickled on the side to cut the fat of the ribs. I actually kind of like that they serve the beef and pork ribs together, because some people in parties love pork ribs (like me), and some people don’t eat pork (like a lot of my Jewish friends). Order a bucket of bones, share amongst different-minded people, and you might just make some friends!
Buffalo Cauliflower : Beer Battered Cauliflower, Louisiana Hot Sauce, Ranch Dressing ($7)
I ordered this to kind of “round out” the meat- heavy meal, and I totally fell in love. Cauliflower to me is probably one of the most boring vegetables there are, but for some reason when they’re battered like this they actually taste like meat! The texture has a good meaty density, and because they’re so neutral in flavour, they soak up all the delicious hot sauce and ranch. Super addictive.
Johnny Cake with Smoked Trout : Cornmeal Griddle Cake with Savoury Cream, Smoked Trout, Maple Syrup & Chives ($14)
The best dish of the night. Wow. If you like the combination of sweet and savoury flavours, then order this and thank me later. Similar to a pancake, but with a more chewy texture and nutty flavour from the cornmeal, the Johnny Cake is a Rhode Island and New England breakfast or side dish staple. It arrived absolutely drunk off sticky maple syrup, with a generous slab of salty smoked trout, and a massive dollop of rich fluffy cream. Oh lordy…We actually fought over each bite- yep, this stuff is good enough to cause break ups.
Tater Tots : Crispy Potatoes, Cheese, Gravy & Herbs ($5)
Another pretty addictive little bite. Unlike the tater tots I shamefully remember as a child which were more hard batter than potato, these babies were potato-forward with a light ethereal crunch. They actually were almost closer to big gnocchi that had been pan or flash fried. I could have maybe liked a little more cheese flavour, but they were absolutely delicious nontheless. Yum.
Red Velvet Funnel Cake : Bourbon Vanilla Bean Ice Cream, Orange Cream Cheese Drizzle, Macerated Berries ($7)
If you have fond memories of going to the fair for funnel cake, then this is the dessert for you. I liked the deep cocoa flavour in the cake against the bright tangy cream cheese drizzle and the buttery smooth bourbon ice cream. It was childhood but just a little more drunk. I loved it.
From the time we walked in to the time we paid and left, the service was incredibly friendly and attentive. We were checked on regularly to see if we were enjoying our meal, drinks came lightening quick, and our water and cutlery were consistently replenished. My only criticism is that for a blogger (or really, for anyone who is ordering a lot of dishes), the service was perhaps too quick. Most people wouldn’t mind having 2-4 dishes on their table at once, but it can get a little stressful for a blogger trying to photograph and eat! The entire meal from start to finish was under one hour, which depending on your position and preferences, may be a good thing. The HOTB doesn't take reservations for parties less than 10, so if you're waiting, you'll appreciate how quickly the food comes out. However, if you're the type who enjoys a more leisurely meal, then I would suggest you politely request that dishes come slower and evenly spaced out.
So for 4 cocktails, and 6 dishes, the bill came to about $125 including tax and tip- very reasonable considering what we ordered could have easily fed two members of the American army. Yep, it was a stick-to-your-ribs (and really, everywhere else) comfort-food meal that offered a truly unique perspective on American cuisine. It’s not every day you get to see so many different regional influences represented on one small menu, and I think that’s where TheHOTB really shines. The drinks were creative and tasty, the food was playful and flavourful, the service was super attentive, and I loved the retro décor. Even though I am proud to be Canadian, I have a soft spot for Americana paraphernalia and history, so this was totally my style. Overall, I’d say it’s hard to believe these folks are only a mere 2 weeks in as the food was so rockstar it hurt. I am definitely looking forward to a repeat visit when I return from my Europe travels, when perhaps as taste of American cuisine will feel even closer to home. Join or Die, TheHOTB? You can bet a fried-chicken-handshake I’m in.
Now, here is my little disclaimer note for TheHOTB- Usually, I try not to officially review a restaurant until they’re at least a month in, so please to use this post more as a guide than a critique. Having said that, these guys obviously nailed it so I’d say they’re more than ready to take on your patronage. Enjoy.
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