Looks, Feels And Tastes The Part. E: I am not even crazy for ramen like some people here and still very much enjoyed my lunch. Kintaro indeed does oodles of noodle right every time.
For lunch I ordered the Shoyu BBQ pork and lest anyone assumes it might be necessary to let drop that the ramen was devoid an actual BBQ taste. My pick this time was the lean pork, but medium broth. Be ready as they will ask for your choices as the order is taken. The broth was tasty and rich without that overwhelming taste of MSG or salt that scratches the throat and beckons more and more water consumption like some chains one could name. The fishiest tasting Nori ever was in the bowl. Its effect won't go undetected. It added to the ramen really well - I can't believe how good it was - and knowing this the chef adds one half of a nori sheet to each ramen. There were seven cutlets of pork in my bowl, which were meaty and chewy. Perhaps the fattier cuts would have been less chewy. There was lots of bamboo, lots of sprout, and lots of green onion all in a big bowel. There was no egg. Should I have ordered it separately? One can also get extra noodles. But why do so when the bowl is so big and the quantity is so much that by the time I got to the end of my broth the ramen was only lukewarm? By the way, it was spicier at the bottom of the bowl. Apparently, my spices had seeped downward.
Their new special on the menu, which I took a picture of, is the Garlic Ramen which someone ordered as it was made in front of me. The ramen truly had a ball of chopped garlic on top. How would anyone survive that? On the other hand, any current (or future) colds would be cured or pre-cured.
Everything was fresh and made with care by a chef who appeared focused and intent on measuring, testing, mixing and sampling. No wonder the ramen at Vancouver's ramen golden boy (Kintaro is also the name of a geisha in Stray Dogs) was positively fragrant. I noticed the chef has not changed. The same dishevelled Japanese chef was there with an assistant (I thought) until I noticed the guy who has been there the three times I have visited in the last three years was taking instructions and his cues from the other chef. Their banter and constant consultation reeked of a fastidious attention to their broth.
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A: Kintaro is a fast-paced no-nonsense ramen shop with little fancy about it. The place has that cheap 'white tiles' look. The star attraction is the pots and pans and the clang and rattle that is the chefs making ramen.
The staff is all adorned in old Kintaro T-shirts. An All-Asian clientele was comprised of younger people (the future of ramen seems bright) until an older couple walked in. Signs on the counter now say "please keep your eyes on your valuables" and repeated in Japanese - kid you not. The paint on the counter is worn out. It could be a sign of Kintaro's heavy client traffic.
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T: I was in my seat at a quarter to noon and received my order at noon. At 11:45 three tables were already taken, while two people were at the counter. More importantly, there was no line-up yet. The ramen was not ready. It would be 15 minutes before it was, to the chefs' liking and being served. By 12:30 there was a line-up. It used to be that the line-up of 10-12 people would have been formed by 12:00 so perhaps the proliferation of original, copycat and competing businesses has taken a bite out of Kintaro. I walked by Santouka later and noticed the queue outside. Perhaps they, and Motomachi Shokudo, have stolen Kintaro's thunder? Ironically, strolling around before and after eating at Kintaro in October of 2010 we had noticed Motomachi and ridiculed their small sign proclaiming the availability of ramen. Now, they are both owned by the same person. They are only three doors down. We believed Motomachi is switching its menu to ramen as a me-too ploy. On the day Motomachi was busy, but there wasn't a line-up. As an aside, still walking up Robson and a little further I noticed something else that was new and different. Gyoza King now serves sushi and Sashimi. It was amusing to see as I recall the sign on the restaurant's door - as we were waiting for our take-out Gyoza in mid-summer of 2009 - proclaiming the absence of sushi and sashimi from the premises. The sign exhorted people to try Japanese cooked food adding that Japanese fare is more than just sushi and sashimi. It was so funny that we even attempted to take a photograph of the piece of paper. Apparently, people have moved towards Gyoza King's position with ramen, gyoza, tonkatsu et al abounding and Gyoza King has met them halfway and introduced sushi!
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S: The service has improved at Kintaro. Again, it might be my imagination, but could it be the competition from Motomachi, Shokudo or Benkei? I was greeted with an irashaimase 'welcome' by two friendly waitresses. It is not something I expected either a ramen shop or at Kintaro. There soon was a third waitress about the place, which is nice for such a small place where half the clients are sitting at the counter. Later she would ask "how is everything" prompting me to think 'where am I' and 'is this an Asian restaurant?' She even had a smile on her face. I even received a water refill. Yes, I am getting mischievous about this, but readers should catch my drift.
I had introduced a friend to Kintaro three years ago for a surprise dinner and had created a fan for Kintaro. The friend turned out to have been a ramen enthusiast - that was my revelation - and wholly approved of Kintaro. Of course, separately and jointly revisits were undertaken. Why do I mention this? Upon returning to slurp again at Kintaro in October of 2010 we were early and Kintaro was not yet open. We had walked over to investigate the closing of Yoshi On Denman - the new owner Taiko On Denman, speculated to my friend who had gone upstairs to enquire, that there is a Yoshi in Alberta!? When we came back we found a line-up outside Kintaro. I was on the receiving end of some blame for making us late and making us stand in line for 20 minutes. Why do I mention that? At a quarter to twelve, when we had originally attempted to enter Kintaro, a rude Japanese guy had jumped up and down shooing us away looking agitated and irate even though there was no closed sign and the door was wide open. In other words, their service has apparently improved since.
In contrast, this visit was less, er, exciting and the, er, amusement was confined to the enduringly good ramen and improved service. Moreover, unlike my second visit there was no customer sitting next to me pouring his entire glass of ice water into his freshly delivered ramen. If the person who did that is reading he should contact me. I have two words for you: Kikuya Ramen.
Back to the service, once the ramen is ready the chef shouts the name of the item and one of the waitresses picks it up, takes a big wooden spoon from a basket on the counter, places it in the bowl and serves the steaming broth. The chef takes the order sheet that the waitresses have left on the counter, dips it in the boiling water in the pot in front of him in order to fasten it to the counter. It looks odd and unsanitary. What is the story behind that? He wants to make the paper sticky and adhesive for the counter, but still.
One (almost) last thing. Whatever happened to the original Richmond location of Kintaro? How could it have failed? Or was Denman the original location?
My bill came to $11.48. It was delivered before I asked for it - a hint? - by the still smiling and friendly waitress.
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